緬甸歲月

(澳門日報) 2018年01月13日 03:40
緬甸歲月
曼德勒的夕陽
緬甸歲月
蘇堂庇亞塔內的拱門磚面,在夕陽映照下異彩芳菲,更添幾分波斯風情。
緬甸歲月
烏本橋上攤販售賣的手工藝品和土特產
緬甸歲月
山達穆尼佛塔

    緬甸歲月

    攝影、撰文:杜  然

    羅興亞難民危機,令緬甸成為國際焦點。在西方世界,昂山素季的民主女神形象一朝幻滅。一時之間,種族清洗、宗教迫害之說此起彼落,而事件背後的來龍去脈,西方媒體似乎沒有興趣了解。要認識緬甸並非易事。一次短暫的旅程,註定只可走馬看花,遑論可兩手一伸,撥開籠罩這神秘佛國的千年迷霧,窺探真貌於瞬間。

    從歷代王朝、英國殖民、軍政府鐵腕統治,乃至近年向民主國家轉型,緬甸的悠長故事,是遠東和世界歷史和人類學研究不可或缺的重要一章。從廿一世紀找切入點,沿着孕育出緬甸文明的伊落瓦底江,千里之行,始於江畔的曼德勒,然後南下歷史名城蒲甘,直至位處伊落瓦底江入海口的仰光,順應這條貫穿緬甸古今興衰的歷史脈絡,相信會是一個不錯的選擇。

    在巴利文中,曼德勒意為“多寶之城”,得名於其背靠的曼德勒山。在曼德勒山上遍佈佛塔和僧院,近兩個世紀以來,一直是緬甸佛教徒朝聖之旅的重要一站。山頂之上的蘇堂庇亞塔(Sutaungpyei Pagoda),意譯為“願望成真”,是不少信徒靜思禪修之選,也是旅客常到的景點之一。有緣登頂,眼前的曼德勒全景一覽無遺,宛如翻開了一軸曼德勒地理志的長卷。碰巧日落晚霞,極目遠眺,浩如繁星的佛塔,金黃色的塔頂泛起粼光點點,而象徵緬甸貢榜王朝的曼德勒皇宮,亦一併盡收眼底。在時代巨輪之下,平靜安逸的護城河,四道褐紅色的城牆,仍然忠誠地守衛着末代王朝的歲月痕跡。

    從曼德勒山往下走,離山腳不遠處,可以找到山達穆尼佛塔和固都陶佛塔。沿着筆直的走廊漫步,大金塔還未映入眼簾。此時只要環視四周,方覺自己身處在一個由望之不盡的白色小佛塔組成的塔林之中。固都陶佛塔號稱是全世界最大的石刻經書。要在這獨一無二的圖書館內尋找佛學智慧,須懂巴利文,更需要有耐心和時間。聽說一個人每天如果花八小時閱讀,要讀完在每一座佛塔上的書,合共需要四百五十天,方可完成任務。

    如果曼德勒之旅是一部朝聖三部曲,除了翻山越嶺,感受固都陶佛塔的莊嚴,也必須朝拜馬哈牟尼寺方得圓滿。相傳馬哈牟尼寺建於公元前五世紀,由佛祖親自監造。建成後,佛祖在佛像之內注入七口靈氣。於是對緬甸人而言,終其此生,必朝聖馬哈牟尼寺和仰光大金塔,以昭示對佛陀虔誠之心。要近距離瞻仰佛像,信眾可於寺內購買金箔並將其直接貼上佛像,不過基於傳統,只有男性才有貼金箔的專利。

    “在曼德勒的路上,有陽光、棕櫚樹和清脆的風鈴聲。”一八九○年,英國詩人吉普林取道印度孟買返回英國,途經緬甸之時,傾倒於瓦城少女純樸之美,神魂之下寫了詩歌《曼德勒》,啟迪不少西方世界的文化創意。作為緬甸第二大城市,塔娜卡的芳香,一直縈繞着曼德勒這座文化古都。只要走上街頭,傳統藝術和經濟活動互相結合的例子隨處可見。因佛教文化興盛的關係,不少就業機會,譬如打造薄如蟬翼的金箔,造型生動、手工精細的佛像木雕等,皆圍繞着禮佛業而生。隨行的資深緬甸通蘇貌指在這片佛國淨土之上的富豪,累積了豐厚財富之後,不少都豁然傾囊,為籌建佛塔勞心勞力。蘇貌友善親切,學識淵博,精通中緬雙語,深諳行走緬甸社會江湖之道,仿如一部活字典。路途遙遠,不免周車勞頓,沿途幸得蘇貌排難解紛,更幸得他不吝指教,此行實在獲益良多。

    想要洗滌心靈,排解煩憂,浴佛以外,以敬虔之心,同大自然展開身心對話,同樣可以放下、自在。近年緬甸政府銳意發展生態旅遊,在曼德勒省的山城彬烏倫是其中一例。彬烏倫座落於撣邦高原,風景秀麗,氣候怡人,是山區避暑小鎮。在前往康達維國家公園的路上,亦不時見到從英屬緬甸時期已留下來的西洋別墅。國家公園內環境清幽,綠草如茵。造物主穿越時空的心思和意念,仿如琥珀標本般被凝結在木化石和蝴蝶博物館內,而園內的意外驚喜,必然是被世界自然保護聯盟列為易危物種的羚牛。羚牛在不丹叫做塔金,被奉為國獸,體小尾短、叫聲柔弱似羚羊,但體型卻粗壯如牛,故取名羚牛。

    要數曼德勒引以為傲的稀世珍寶,少不了橫跨東塔曼湖的烏本橋。這條全世界最長的柚木橋,座落在阿馬拉布拉古城境內,其歷史至少可追朔至十四世紀的阿瓦王朝。不少遊客皆慕其絕美日落之名而來,惟抵達當日,天公拒絕作美,卻送來了颯爽涼風。漫步於橋板上,踏着經歲月洗禮的足印,湖面上的擺渡船影,泛起了波光粼粼的漣漪。靜謐的禪意緩緩地在眼波流轉之際,擦身而過的僧侶在捻着佛珠,輪迴來世今生的無量功德。           (上)

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Error: Got a packet bigger than 'max_allowed_packet' bytes
Errno.: 1153